The First Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flyback Chronograph in Gold and Ceramic
Today, we will introduce you to two new Code 11.59 flyback chronograph models from Audemars Piguet’s collection. These two pieces represent a “first time” for the Le Brassus-based watchmaker, as they are the first models to combine gold and ceramic materials.
The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 line was introduced with the aim of adding a whole new building block to the Swiss watch industry – to write a new chapter, if you will. This is reflected in the very name of the collection, “11.59”: one minute until the “next day” or “new era” of watchmaking.
Audemars Piguet’s Savoir-Faire
For the past 50 years, Audemars Piguet has been synonymous with pretty much one model, and one model only – one which even today is at the centre of attention: the iconic Royal Oak.
Like all great artists, which, first and foremost, are artisans, watchmakers too are known for their masterpieces: Munch’s “The Scream”, Michelangelo’s “David”, or Da Vinci’s “Mona Lisa”. However, it is very difficult for these historic watch brands to push past today’s world which is obsessed with labelling: to strive for further greatness, and not simply coast off of past success.
This is what Audemars Piguet is trying to achieve, and as far as we are concerned, we think they are doing extremely well.
The new Code 11.59 Flyback Chronograph
At first glance, the dial may seem rather simple and bare, yet at the same time, you can immediately spot the (many) tastefully positioned details, creating a sense of balance which very few watchmakers can achieve.
The two 41mm-cased chronographs flaunt what is known as a “two-tone” appearance: the bezel, lugs, and caseback are made from 18 karat white and rose gold, meanwhile the rest of the famous octagonal case is made from polished ceramic.
This last item – the use of ceramic – is a totally new feature for this collection. This achievement was a joint venture between Audemars Piguet and Bangerter: a Swiss family-owned company which specialises in high-precision manufacturing and treating components made from ceramic, tungsten, and many other hard materials.
These expert artisans were tasked with surface finishing the case, the result of which is a case which plays with the light in fascinating ways, which is in turn accompanied by the inherent aesthetic contrast between the two main materials.
The “Smoked” Dials
Both of these models sport a “smoked”, or, shaded dial which transitions from grey to black. These are very tastefully contrasted by the chronograph sub-dials, each encircled with a gold ring, and lacquered in the middle.
Going back to the main dial, this exhibits an expertly crafted satin-brushed along the vertical axis, which seamlessly transitions into the various finishing techniques employed on the bezel and case. The hands and the indices are made from case-matching gold, which bring a sense of duality to the watch, juxtaposing the smoked/shaded dial.
Now that we’ve seen the ever-refined dials of these Code 11.59 timepieces, let’s take a closer look at the main complication: the flyback chronograph function.
The In-House Caliber 4401
IThe cal. 4401 which powers the new models of the Code 11.59 collection is equipped with the famed flyback chronograph (in French: “retour-en-voule”) complication, and is a movement which has been entirely (naturally) manufactured in house at AP.
The set of column wheels allows the watch’s chronograph hand to return to the start without having to press the “reset” button on the side of the case. The movement is also equipped with a vertical clutch, which is basically a system which ensures smooth but swift operation of the hands when the chronograph function is activated or stopped. Furthermore, Audemars Piguet has introduced an all-new patented resetting mechanism which allows for the chronograph counters’ hands to more accurately travel back to their rest position.
If you turn the watch over, the sapphire caseback allows you to truly admire the masterfully decorated movement, the most notable of which is the 22 karat (yes, 22!) rose gold oscillating weight. Other eye-catching decorations include the various components which sport “Côtes de Genève”, “traits tires” and circular graining finishing.
Other Details
Both models are offered on a specially-made rubber coated, almost woven-like strap. This conforms very nicely into the perfectly proportioned lugs (open-worked, might we add), and serve as further contrast to the case materials.
Just like all the previous models within the Code 11.59 collection, the sapphire crystal appears to be domed thanks to its proprietary “double curved” manufacture, naturally, treated with a glare-proof coating. All in all, the watch’s water resistance is of 30m.
Final Remarks
As we’ve said before, it’s no secret that the Code 11.59 is the most polarising collection within the Audemars Piguet portfolio, but one thing is for sure: you simply cannot disregard the level of research and design that has been put into the aesthetic appearance of the timepieces and the materials used in this line. What is really unique about this collection, I think, is its apparent simplicity. That is, until you actually take a closer look at the timepiece, then you realise that this elegant simplicity is perfectly balanced by captivating colours and tons of tiny peculiarities.
Author: Federico Chiesa
Translated by: Patrick Romano
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